If you've ever had to dig up your yard just to get your tank pumped, you know exactly why installing a 24 septic tank riser is a total game-changer for your property. There is nothing quite as frustrating as spending a whole afternoon stabbing a shovel into the grass, trying to remember if the tank lid was three feet or five feet from the old oak tree. Most of us have been there, and frankly, it's a mess that nobody wants to deal with more than once. Bringing that access point up to the surface makes life a lot easier, not just for you, but for the guy who comes out to pump the tank every few years.
Why the 24-inch size is the industry standard
You'll see a lot of different sizes when you start looking at parts, but a 24 septic tank riser is usually the sweet spot for most residential systems. It's wide enough for a person to reach in and do inspections or pull a filter without feeling like they're trying to work through a mail slot. If you go too small, like a 12-inch or 15-inch opening, it's a nightmare for the technician. They can't see what they're doing, and if your tank has a baffle filter that needs cleaning, good luck getting your arm down there comfortably.
The "24" usually refers to the inside diameter. Most modern plastic tanks and even the older concrete ones have an opening that fits this size perfectly. It's basically the "one size fits most" of the septic world. Plus, because they're so common, you can find lids, safety pans, and extensions easily at any hardware store or online shop without having to special order some weird custom size.
Plastic vs. Concrete: Which one should you pick?
Back in the day, everything was concrete. If you wanted a riser, you'd stack heavy concrete rings on top of each other. Honestly, those things are a literal pain in the back. They're heavy, they're prone to cracking over time, and they don't always seal very well against groundwater.
These days, most people are moving toward high-density polyethylene (HDPE) or PVC. A plastic 24 septic tank riser is much lighter, obviously, but it's also surprisingly tough. It won't corrode from the gases inside the tank—which, let's be real, are pretty nasty—and it's a lot easier to get a watertight seal. If you're doing this as a DIY project over the weekend, your spine will definitely thank you for choosing plastic over concrete.
Getting ready for the installation
Before you even buy your 24 septic tank riser, you've got to do a little bit of homework. You need to know how deep your tank is buried. Get a probe or a shovel and find the actual lid of the tank. Measure from the top of that lid to the surface of the ground.
Risers usually come in different heights—6-inch, 12-inch, or 18-inch sections. You can stack them like Legos to reach the surface. If your tank is 20 inches deep, you might get a 12-inch and a 6-inch section, then let the lid sit just a couple of inches above the grass.
What you'll need on hand:
- The riser sections and a matching lid
- An adapter ring (if your tank opening isn't perfectly round or flat)
- Butyl rope or heavy-duty silicone sealant
- Stainless steel screws
- A drill and a shovel
The actual dirty work
First off, you're going to have to dig. There's no way around it. You need to clear enough space around the tank's existing opening so you can work comfortably. Once you've exposed the concrete or plastic lid, remove it. This is a good time to take a quick look at the state of your tank. If it's full, call the pumper now so they can empty it before you finish the installation.
Clean off the surface of the tank opening really well. If there's dirt or old crumbling concrete in the way, your new 24 septic tank riser won't seal properly. A wire brush works wonders here. You want that surface as smooth as possible so the sealant can do its job.
Setting the base
If you're using an adapter ring, apply the butyl rope (that sticky, black, gum-like stuff) around the perimeter of the tank opening. Press the adapter down firmly. If you're mounting it directly to concrete, you might need to use a hammer drill to set some anchors, but many modern kits allow you to just use a heavy bead of sealant and the weight of the dirt to hold things in place.
Stacking the sections
Once the base is set, you just start stacking your 24 septic tank riser sections. Most of them have a tongue-and-groove design. Put another layer of sealant between each section. You want to be absolutely sure that rainwater can't leak into your tank. It might sound harmless, but if your yard floods and hundreds of gallons of rainwater pour into your septic system, it can overwhelm your leach field and cause a massive (and expensive) failure.
Sealing it up tight
I can't stress this enough: the seal is the most important part. If you're lazy with the sealant, you're basically inviting roots to grow into your tank. Roots love the moisture and nutrients inside a septic system, and once they get a foothold in a gap in your riser, they'll tear it apart.
Check your work. Once the 24 septic tank riser is bolted down or sealed, give it a good wiggle. It should feel like a solid part of the tank. If you're using screws, make sure they're stainless steel. Regular screws will rust away in a year or two thanks to the hydrogen sulfide gas coming off the waste.
Choosing the right lid
The lid is the only part you're actually going to see, so you want it to be decent. Most 24 septic tank riser kits come with a heavy-duty green lid that blends into the grass. Make sure the lid you choose is "pedestrian rated." This means it can handle a person walking on it or a lawnmower riding over it.
However, if your tank is in the middle of your driveway (it happens more often than you'd think), you need a "traffic rated" lid. Don't try to save a few bucks here—a standard plastic lid will snap like a cracker if a truck rolls over it. Also, ensure the lid has a good gasket and is screwed down. You don't want kids or curious pets being able to pry it open.
Making it look good in your yard
Once everything is installed and the dirt is backfilled around the 24 septic tank riser, you'll have a green circle in your yard. Some people hate the look of it, but there are ways to hide it. You can put a potted plant on top of it, or one of those fake "landscape rocks" that are hollow inside.
Just whatever you do, don't bury it under six inches of dirt again. That completely defeats the purpose of having a riser! If you want it hidden, keep it level with the ground and just let the grass grow right up to the edge. You'll be glad you did the next time the pumper truck pulls into your driveway.
Safety first, always
It's easy to forget because it's just a "hole in the ground," but septic tanks are dangerous. The gases inside can be lethal, and the risk of someone falling in is real. When you're installing your 24 septic tank riser, never leave the hole unattended if the lid is off.
Many people also install a "safety pan" or "safety screen" inside the riser. This is a secondary plastic grid that sits a few inches below the lid. If some kid manages to unscrew the lid, the safety pan prevents them from falling into the tank. It's a small extra cost, but for the peace of mind it provides, it's a no-brainer.
Wrapping things up
At the end of the day, installing a 24 septic tank riser is one of those home maintenance tasks that pays for itself in convenience. You'll save money on every future pump-out because you won't be paying the septic company a "dig fee." Plus, you can easily pop the lid once a year just to make sure everything is flowing the way it should be. It's a bit of a sweaty job to get it installed, but once it's done, you're set for decades. Just do yourself a favor: use plenty of sealant, buy the stainless steel screws, and definitely go for the plastic version. Your future self will thank you.